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November 16, 2006

Preparing For Africa

My 3 months of voluntary work at the Pestalozzi International Village are nearly at an end, and I am currently finalising preparations for the next phase of my life: an eight month trip through Africa. In order to see as much as possible of the countries in that vast continent, in order to be able to visit and stay in the more remote places there - especially deserts, mountains and savannah, and in order to travel safely through regions that can be dangerous for a solo traveller, I have decided that the ideal method of travel for me this time is an Overland Trip.

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A Dragoman camp in the desert

What is an Overland Trip? Its a journey by road in a truck, often 4 wheel drive, that has been fitted out with seats, camping equipment, cooking facilities, large storage tanks for fuel and water, and all the tools and spares required to keep the truck running through some of the most remote areas on the planet. Add a couple of drivers, up to 20 passengers who have never met each other before, and point them in the direction of somewhere far off and exotic. This is a 'hands-on' journey for all, not a guided tour. The truck gets you there, but its up to you what you see. Participation is the key - on a typical day you might have to bargain for food at a local market, and then, in the evening, prepare a meal for 22 hungry travellers over an open fire. On a bad day, you will be stuck for hours at a border, or spend all afternoon digging the truck out of sand or mud. Luckily, there are not too many of these. On a good day you get to explore bits of the planet that are not accessible by public transport. You get to see some stunning scenery. You get to meet many people from many different countries, and to get to share some great times with a bunch of other like-minded travellers who will often turn out to be friends for life.

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Sabratha ruins, Libya

It has been 14 years since I last went on an Overland Expedition so there was a fair bit of planning and research needed. As I hadn't got a truck of my own right now, the first thing to do was to decide which company to go with. In the past I have preferred Exodus , but looking through their online brochures it seems that they are slowly moving away from the longer journeys, and going over to the smaller ones, which was not what I was interested in. Guerba have a very good reputation too, especially in Africa, but their routes were not quite right for my needs this time, as they, too, seem to be favouring the short trips rather than the epic expeditions I was looking for. I guess they are just following the market, and catering for people in well-paid jobs with only so much holiday-time available, but I have found in the past that the longer trips are the really enjoyable ones, when people realise that they will be with the same group for quite a while, and thus make the effort to really pull together.

A bit more surfing brought me to the Dragoman site, and once I had started to read through their excellent online brochure I saw that not only do they still do the very long journeys that I prefer, but that they are also opening up some new and unusual routes which were of great interest to me.

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Sand-matting in the desert

After much browsing and pondering, I decided on a 6 month trip from Dover, England to Cape Town, South Africa. You can see a map of the route on my Map Page, and more details on the Dragoman page here. The route that this trip takes is an interesting one: rather than the standard drive through Morocco and West Africa before turning south, it goes instead through Tunisia and Libya, crossing the Sahara to Ghadames and the Fezzan, then heading to the mountains and rock art of Jebel Akakus and the stunning oasis of Obari Lakes before returning to the coast to see the Tobruk War Cemeteries and the battle ground of El Alamein. As a big fan of the desert, the chance to do this route through north Africa, and see some of the rarely-visited antiquities of Libya, such as the Sabratha ruins or the Roman city of Leptis Magna, was just too good to miss. There might even be the chance for a glass of Carlsberg in Alexandria, as others have enjoyed before...

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Ice Cold in Alex

Here is the full list of countries that we will travel through:

England, France, Italy, Tunisia, Libya, Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana, Mozambique, Swaziland, Lesotho, and South Africa.

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African elephants

For those friends and family who are interested, here is my rough itinerary:

SectionFromToPeriodStartFinish
1DoverTunis09 nights22 Nov 0601 Dec 06
2TunisCairo28 nights01 Dec 0629 Dec 06
-Break in Cairo 04 nights29 Dec 0602 Jan 07
3CairoKhartoum27 nights02 Jan 0729 Jan 07
4KhartoumAddis Ababa25 nights29 Jan 0723 Feb 07
5Addis AbabaNairobi21 nights23 Feb 0716 Mar 07
-Break in Nairobi 04 nights16 Mar 0720 Mar 07
6NairobiVictoria Falls34 nights20 Mar 0723 Apr 07
7Victoria FallsCape Town34 nights23 Apr 0727 May 07

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Cape Town, South Africa

When I get to Cape Town, I plan on spending a month backpacking around South Africa, and then I pick up a second Overland Trip, this time with Kumuka, a new company for me. The trip, for which you can see more details here, departs Cape Town in South Africa on the 24th of June 2007, and takes 21 days to journey via Namibia and Botswana to the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, where it arrives on the 14th of July. Once again, an Overland Trip is ideal for travelling through Namibia, as there are many wild and desolate areas to see that are well outside the range of public transport.

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Fish River Canyon, Namibia

I'll stay at Victoria Falls for a few days, then fly back to London on the 17th:

BA6282 d 1350 Tue17Jul07 Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe a 1530 Tue17Jul07 Johannesburg,South Africa
BA0056 d 2015 Tue17Jul07 Johannesburg,South Africa a 0620 Wed18Jul07 Heathrow Terminal 1

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Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Contact Information:
Although emails will be the normal and easiest method of communication, some people have asked how to send me a 'snail mail' letter, and I must add that it is always very nice to receive a hand-written letter, Christmas or Birthday card, and any that I receive will be replied to. Here are the addresses that I will check:



MAKINS, T
POSTE RESTANTE
MAIN POST OFFICE
MIDAN ATABA
CAIRO
EGYPT

I will be arriving here: 29 Dec 2006
You should post letters at the latest: 08 Dec 2006

MAKINS, T
POSTE RESTANTE
MAIN POST OFFICE
CHURCHILL ROAD
ADDIS ABABA
ETHIOPIA

I will be arriving here: 23 Feb 2007
You should post letters at the latest: 09 Feb 2007

MAKINS, T
POSTE RESTANTE
MAIN POST OFFICE
KENYATTA AVENUE
NAIROBI
KENYA

I will be arriving here: 16 Mar 2007
You should post letters at the latest: 02 Mar 2007

MAKINS, T
POSTE RESTANTE
POST OFFICE
LIVINGSTONE WAY
VICTORIA FALLS
ZIMBABWE

I will be arriving here: 23 Apr 2007
You should post letters at the latest: 09 Apr 2007

MAKINS, T
POSTE RESTANTE
MAIN POST OFFICE
PARLIAMENT STREET
CAPE TOWN
SOUTH AFRICA

I will be arriving here: 27 May 2007
You should post letters at the latest: 11 May 2007

MAKINS, T
POSTE RESTANTE
MAIN POST OFFICE
GARNISON STREET
SWAKOPMUND
NAMIBIA

I will be arriving here: 01 Jul 2007
You should post letters at the latest: 15 Jun 2007

Some notes for those of you not familiar with 'Poste Restante': it allows me to go to the main post office, show my passport, and pick up any mail that is waiting for me. Post offices normally hold mail for 1 month ONLY, so please don't send your mail too early. Your local office will advise on postal times, though generally 2-3 weeks is sufficient. It is MOST important that you copy the address EXACTLY as shown above, and that you don't write my name in any other way than 'MAKINS, T'. Note that security is not always guaranteed, so parcels and packets may get lost or stolen. A letter, airmail form, or greetings card in a sealed envelope is the most likely to reach me. If you wish to send a package, parcel, or magazine, please send it separately from your letter, and mention in your letter that you have sent a parcel. Note also that it is not unheard of for envelopes with attractive stamps to be stolen, too, so just use the most boring ones you have, or get the letter franked on a bulk-mailing machine. Don't forget to send the letter via Airmail, and include a return-address on the rear of the envelope.

Packing List
As I mentioned above, it has been a while since I last went on a journey like this, but thankfully my old notebooks were still available, so by reading these, and do doing some research both on the web and in the excellent trip notes that Dragoman sends out, I managed to arrive at a final 'Overland Packing List', which I have copied below for anyone who is interested:

RucksackSleeping Bags (2)TrainersSponge Bag
DaysackSleeping Bag LinerSandalsSoap & Soapdish
Mosquito NetThermarest & Repair KitShortsLaruium
Cord & Spacer & PegsGroundsheetRohan Bags (2)Rennies
Cash Bags (3)Fleece (2)ImmodiumSavalon
WaterbottleStuff-SackShort-Sleeve Shirt (2)Nurofen
Travel PillowCrayonsLong-Sleeve ShirtToothpaste (3)
Eye ShadesPens (2)Tee-ShirtToothbrush
Ear Plugs (18)Pencils (2)SweatshirtShampoo & Bottle
Padlocks (2)HighlighterSandal SocksAloe Vera
ChainEraserTrainer Socks (2)Sun Cream
SpoonPlaying CardsScarfPuritabs
ScissorsHousewifeBeltHandwash (3)
TorchWalletPlasters 
Spare Bulb (2)Money BeltPants (3)Binoculars
Candles (4)PassportLong JohnsBalloons
PenknifeVaccination Cert.Cap/HatLondon Postcards
Bag Labels (2)Credit CardWatchWashing Powder
CalculatorTCs & ReceiptTowelRubber Circles (3)
Sunglasses & Case (2)LipbalmNail ClippersWashing Line
Glasses (2)Bankcard(s)Radio & EarphonesRid
Digital CameraWalkmanInsurance FormLiquid Skin
Camera PouchCassettesPassport Copy 
Battery Charger/leadPassport Photos (20)Trip paperworkFly Spray
Dual Battery BoxCashVitamin Pills 
AA Batteries (?)USB Memory StickMapsTooth Repair Kit
Memory CardsBracelet BookNotebooks (2)Ziplock Bags
Walking BootsEmbroidery SilksGuidebooksDaily Toilet Paper
Walking Boot Socks (2)UmbrellaReading BooksToilet Paper
Rain CoatWoolen GlovesRain Trousers 

Hopefully the list is fairly self-explanatory. Some you can find out about on my Backpacker packing list page. A Google-search will find most of the others. Here are a few you might not understand...

'Rohan Bags' - they are my favourite travellers trousers. 'Bracelet Book' - that's where I keep designs for friendship-bracelets. I like to design my own, and making them is a great way to pass the time whilst travelling. 'Dual Battery Box' - that's a little plastic box which I keep spare camera batteries in. What's a 'Housewife'? Actually, its the name that soldiers call their sewing kit. Here's my 'Housewife' contents:

PlastersTin OpenerTweezersButton Thread
CottonsGaffer TapeVelcroPress Studs
Leather ThongSellotapeThimbleButtons
Safety PinsPaperclipsSeam RipperSuper Glue
LighterNeedlesPinsElastic Bands
Screw-Eyes (2)Mini screwdriverScalpel blade 

I hope you will visit this TravelBlog from time to time, to see my progress through Africa. There will be regular updates, though I don't promise lots of photos whilst I am travelling, or indeed lots of text. Unlike my trips to India, I will not be taking a laptop, so photo selection and resizing will have to wait until later. And I don't intend to spend hours in the Internet Cafe at each stop, so the text will just cover the latest news and events. Sorry if you are expecting more, but there seems little point travelling to new countries only to spend lots of time in the Internet Cafe. I'd rather see where I am, talk to the locals, make new friends, and document my trip at a later date.

Posted by travellingtim at November 16, 2006 01:05 AM