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April 07, 2005

Arrival in Kolkata

Sitting in the Boeing 777, watching the map on the seat-back monitor, the circled centre of Calcutta, now Indianified to Kolkata, approached as 0500 drew ever nearer. The plane slowly descended through a delicate dawn, skimming the early risers in the shacks and hutments around Dum Dum airport. The plane's windows, once clear, fogged over with humidity, or was it a misty-eyed return to a much loved homeland?

The arrival at Dum Dum airport was a first for me, a pleasant experience after the hustle and bustle of Delhi's roaring throng, or even the calmer citizens of Chennai. Small queues, a friendly immigration officer, a long wait for the baggage; my Moss Bros umbrella, checked in against global terror, even arrived unscathed. Pleasantly warm, a little too humid. I changed some money, then straight through customs and out into the arrivals hall, where the 'pre-paid bus' mentioned in the guidebook seemed to be no longer in service, but the pre-paid taxi was still available, and the best option this time. Out of the A/C isolation and into India; the rush of expectant relatives and eager mini-cab drivers, the comforting line of yellow cabs that would take me on a 200rupee, well-worth the expense, no-bargain journey to my destination of backpacker-central, otherwise known as Sudder Street.

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Posters for sale

The Ambassador taxi sets off on its 40 minute ride to town, and I wound down the window for the cool breeze, and a chance to use that most under-used sense of the Western world, the sense of smell. The smoke from early-morning cooking fires, the engine-smell of petrol mixed with kerosine, the gentle smell of cow-dung, and then, when I was least expecting it, the sudden scent of India as a workman pedalled by smoking a bidi, that most distinctive cigarette of the poor, handmade by the poor. Back in India after a break of 2 years, and it seems as if I have never been away. So much is forgotten but familiar, and tugs at my sleeve in a series of rememberings as the day progresses. Crows pick amongst the piles of rubbish, a man washes under a tap, and in the gutters, another family awakes to a day of uncertainty. Trucks rush by, children walk to school, trolleys full of vegetables are pulled to market by straining coolies. The never ending sights of India unfold before me.

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A stall selling lime juice

For now, though, the mechanics of travelling click back into my mind, almost automatically. Out of the taxi; he's not looking for a hotel commission, but there's others who are, and I soon pick up a follower who trails me as I walk down Sudder Street, suggesting hotels that will benefit him the most in private commissions, and then when I finally choose one I stayed in on a previous trip, discretely tagging behind and hovering near reception. I quickly disassociate myself from him, but still have to bargain down the offered price, inspect the room, ask for a receipt and a hotel-card, and check the dates as my details are entered into the vast, dusty hotel ledger.

Four hours 30 minutes ahead of British Summer Time, 5 hours 30 minutes ahead of GMT. Its light of course, but not in my head. My watch says 06:45 but my body says sleep, so sleep it is. Room and windows locked, money-belt secure, eye shades and ear-plugs on, and a final memory forces its way through as my eyes close; the whoosh whoosh of the ceiling fan, and the way its cooling breezes gently wash over my body.

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Curio Seller

Later, refreshed but still dis-orientated, I venture out for a walk to the Maidan, that glorious open space in the centre of Kolkata that gives the otherwise crowded city its lungs back, for a short time. The pollution index is running at 28%, officially classed as 'Unhealthy', but here at least there's a chance to breathe, to enjoy a cup of strong, buffalo milk tea and watch the many games of cricket, hockey, and others that spring up, organised or un-organised, across the browning grass.

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Hockey Match on the Maidan

Posted by travellingtim at April 7, 2005 12:32 PM