The Big Loop Completed
Yes, thirteen was a good number to start the journey with. We even got back with most of the people still on board!
The bad news first of all: driver Blair, and his girlfriend Dawn, who both joined in Beijing, had to leave the trip in Mongolia and fly home due to a death in the family. They were both missed very much. Blair was an excellent driver, and a great guy to be with. His laid back-yet-fully competent attitude is a great adition to any truck.
Jay, who had been driving the truck since Dover, carried on by himself for a month or so until a new co-driver could be found, prepared, and flown out. This turned out to be Vernon, who hot-footed it from South America to join us in Almaty, Kazakhstan, where he seemed to spend a lot of the time making, and then getting stood up on, dates with the locals. Can nobody find him a wife quickly?!
At the moment, typing away at an Internet Cafe in the backstreets of Old Delhi, I find it hard to write a 'we-went-there, we-saw-that' acount of the trip. That will probably come later, along with the second set of my photos. For now, I just wanted to chat about Dragoman itself - based on some ideas I was discussing with others. Someone asked me if I would use Dragoman again, and what I thought of the product/service that they offer these days.
Would I use them again ? The thing is, now that Exodus have left the Overlanding market and Encounter is merged in with Drago, even about to disappear we hear, few other players are left. Dragoman tend to have all the best routes for many parts of the world these days, so for certain Overland journeys there is no other choice.
Generally, I think they are good, very professional, and offer an excellent product. Complaints and moaning are common 'on the road', as with any company - its easy to lose a sense of proportion when you are in the midle of nowhere with a captive audience, but I think that generally speaking, if someone doesn't like what they got when they get there, its their fault for not reading the brochure closely enough! Everything is spelt out most carefully, if you want to read it. I guess its a bit like Internet Dating - one tends to concentrate on the exciting bits and ignore the small print. This is no fault of Dragomans, though! I liked my trip a lot - perhaps because, with 9 other Overland journeys under my belt, I knew what to expect and how to get the best out of it.
Having said that, Dragoman are certainly changing the face of Overlanding as we, the passengers who have been overlanding for many years, all know it. These days, its much more up-market, too much of the passenger's money spent on local guides and fancy hotels, not enough camping or 'meet-the-locals'. Mongolia was a very pleasant departure from this, but no longer the norm. In the 'old days', the trucks would set out with a general idea of where to go, and a sense of adventure to get them through. They might even have had a rough idea when they would arrive at their destination! Not any longer. I heard of one trip recently through India that had a local guide - just what IS the point in that, when India is well mapped, easy to navigate, and has plenty of locals who speak English?
Today's Overland Drivers are not being given the space or time to excel themselves - an on-board local guide just turns them into into driver/mechanics, not true adventure-leaders. For the passengers it means getting things pointed out, rather than discovering things for yourselves. OK, so without a guide it may take longer, and you may miss things, but surely the point of Overlanding is one of discovery, rather than just box-ticking?
Another issue that needs bring to the open is the speed that today's trucks go at. The trips cover too much ground too quickly. Why is this? Supposedly to cater for the supposed needs of a new breed of Overland customers, who have plenty of money, but little time. Customers who want to take a two-week vacation in some intensely exotic land, then fly back to their high-salary jobs. That's why the trips these days are split into short sections. The funny thing was that on the Beijing - St Petersburg leg, no one of the passengers fell into that description of their lifestyle. Its true there are not so many takers for the big journeys - on this truck only Jay and I completed the Calais-Calais circle in tis entirety. Its just a shame that the 'old breed' of Overlander are no longer catered for.
Will I go Overlanding again? I certainly hope so, and want to do a couple more Overlands at least:- Kathmandu to Hong Kong via Tibet with Drago, and an interesting route down the west coast of Africa that Oasis Overland are trying out. That one goes from Gibraltar to Cairo via Cape Town, and takes 40 weeks, BUT with the current problems in Angola and Congo this may have to wait for a couple of years.

Good to hear(?) see your thoughts of Overlanding. I also read somewhere that you are in Old Delhi. Are the bombs etc making any difference to your sojourn?
I enjoyed perusing your Irish house blog. I did not relaise that you were there so recently. I thought that it all happened in your dim and distant past.
I have many memories of our trip together that I will never want to forget. Mongolia, and the lifestyle it forced upon us was my favourite and most memorable. All others were interesting, but there was a time when we seemed to enter the era of ' If it is Wednesday it must be Novdogorod'
It has been good to be in touch over the ether.
Regards, and travel safely
John G