July 2008 Archives

Thirteen on the Thirteenth

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Is the Thirteenth a good day to start an Overland journey when the truck has Thirteen passengers?! Time alone will tell. I can never forget the day that I was made redundant: Friday the 13th of October 1989, when my life changed immeasurably for the better... No more 9-to-5s for me, thank you very much!

The passengers onboard Dragoman's truck 'Giselle' are a good mix, though rather older on average than one would usually expect. From the the original group that left Dover on the 17th of March, there is just me, and trip-leader Jay. Warren and Jan, who joined the truck in Xian after a mixed itinerary through Indian and Pakistan, are still on board. We have all spent the last 15 days in Beijing, waiting for the new passengers to arrive. All are now here - a mix of Brits, Canadians, Australians, and an American.

I really enjoyed Beijing. It is a fascinating city, though very spread out and rather difficult to get around, as mentioned previously. I got a lot done, though, both looking around the city and onlnie, sorting out the new maps and photos that I hope you have all has a look at.

We are now in Datong, having had to catch the train from Beijing, to meet the truck which had been stranded here. The train trip was excellent, and very interesting - I am really glad that we were able to include it.

I am just posting this little Blog to let everyone know that there is little likelihood of internet access in Mongolia, so if you don't hear from me for a month or so, don't be surprised. Ditto Facebook Friends. I will update this, and that, when it is next possible!!

Overland Route Maps

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In March 2008, I joined a Dragoman truck to embark on an Overland journey from the UK to St Petersburg, via Central Asia, China, Mongolia, and Kazakhstan. (See the full route here.) Starting in Istanbul, and continuing every driving day since then, I have been recording the route that the Dragoman truck has taken, using my Garmin GPSmap60Cx GPS receiver. (For technical details of how this was done, see here.) I thus have a series of files, one for each day, that stores all the details of speed, position, and altitude as the truck moves about each driving day. Some trekking or walking maps are included as well. These files have now been processed to produce an online Google Map for each day, plus a detailed Route-Report that shows a number of graphs and useful statistics.

To view the maps, click on the links below. The map will initially load as a standard roadmap, but you can also select a Satellite view, or a hybrid view of the two, using the buttons in the top right of the screen. The amount of detail that the Satellite view will provide depends on Google's current satellite photos for that area. In the countryside this might just show a general view that identifies built-up and rural areas, whilst in bigger cities you can often zoom in to see individual buildings, and decide which exit we took from a carpark, or even where we parked in that carpark! The detail can often be astonishing. You can click-and-drag to move the map around, and zoom in and out using the +/- slider on the left of the screen. Note that Google provides no maps for Georgia or Azerbiajan (why not?), and the western parts of China are similarly blank, so you will have to use the satellite photos instead.

The Route Reports are stored as PDF files, so to view them you will need a PDF reader installed on your computer. (Available free from Adobe.)

DateCountryRoute NotesRoute MapRoute Report
March 27th 2008TurkeyIstanbul - AnkaraMap Report
March 28th 2008TurkeyAnkara - NevsehirMap Report
March 30th 2008TurkeyNevsehir - RefahiyeMap Report
March 31st 2008TurkeyRefahiye - Sumela MonasteryMap Report
April 02nd 2008Turkey/GeorgiaSumela Monastery - BatumiMap Report
April 03rd 2008GeorgiaBatumi - KutaisiMap Report
April 04th 2008GeorgiaKutaisi - KazbegiMap Report
April 05th 2008GeorgiaTrekking at KazbegiMap Report
April 06th 2008GeorgiaM27 - TbilisiMap Report
April 09th 2008GeorgiaTbilisi - TelaviMap Report
DateCountryRoute NotesRoute MapRoute Report
April 10th 2008GeorgiaTelavi - N41.50 E046.03Map Report
April 11th 2008GeorgiaN41.50 E046.03 - N41.06 E047.17Map Report
April 12th 2008GeorgiaN41.06 E047.17 - LaihicMap Report
April 13th 2008GeorgiaLaihic - BakuMap Report
April 16th 2008TurkmenistanAround TurkmenbashiMap Report
April 17th 2008TurkmenistanTurkmenbashi - YaradzhyMap Report
April 18th 2008TurkmenistanYaradzhy - AshgabatMap Report
April 20th 2008TurkmenistanAshgabat - DarvazaMap Report
April 21st 2008TurkmenistanDarvaza - N41.46 E059.35Map Report
April 22nd 2008Turkmen/UzbekN41.46 E059.35 - KhivaMap Report
DateCountryRoute NotesRoute MapRoute Report
April 24th 2008UzbekistanKhiva - BukharaMap Report
April 27th 2008UzbekistanBukhara - N40.57 E065.35Map Report
April 28th 2008UzbekistanN40.57 E065.35 - N40.01 E066.35Map Report
April 29th 2008UzbekistanN40.01 E066.35 - SamarkandMap Report
May 01st 2008UzbekistanSamarkand - TashkentMap Report
May 04th 2008UzbekistanTashkent - FerganaMap Report
May 05th 2008Uzbek/KyrgyzFergana - UzgenMap Report
May 06th 2008KyrgyzstanUzgen - Toktogul LakeMap Report
May 07th 2008KyrgyzstanToktogul Lake - N42.05 E074.08Map Report
May 08th 2008KyrgyzstanN42.05 E074.08 - N41.49 E074.31Map Report
DateCountryRoute NotesRoute MapRoute Report
May 09th 2008KyrgyzstanN41.49 E074.31 - KochkorkaMap Report
May 10th 2008KyrgyzstanKochkorka - Issyk-Kul LakeMap Report
May 11th 2008KyrgyzstanIssyk-Kul Lake - KarakolMap Report
May 12th 2008KyrgyzstanKarakol - Sarycat ErtasMap Report
May 13th 2008KyrgyzstanTrekking at Sarycat ErtasMap Report
May 14th 2008KyrgyzstanSarycat Ertas - Cholpon AtaMap Report
May 15th 2008KyrgyzstanCholpon Ata - Ala Archa CanyonMap Report
May 16th 2008KyrgyzstanTrekking in Ala Archa CanyonMap Report
May 17th 2008KyrgyzstanAla Archa Canyon - BishkekMap Report
May 19th 2008KyrgyzstanBishkek - NarynMap Report
DateCountryRoute NotesRoute MapRoute Report
May 20th 2008KyrgyzstanNaryn - N40.43 E075.05Map Report
May 21st 2008Kyrgyz/ChinaN40.43 E075.05 - KashgarMap Report
May 22nd 2008ChinaKashgar - TashkurganMap Report
May 23rd 2008ChinaTashkurgan - KashgarMap Report
May 27th 2008ChinaKashgar - N37.14 E079.01Map Report
May 28th 2008ChinaN37.14 E079.01 - MinfengMap Report
May 29th 2008ChinaMinfeng - N41.44 E085.03Map Report
May 30th 2008ChinaN41.44 E085.03 - TurpanMap Report
May 31st 2008ChinaSightseeing around TurpanMap Report
June 01st 2008ChinaSightseeing around TurpanMap Report
DateCountryRoute NotesRoute MapRoute Report
June 02nd 2008ChinaTurpan - LiaodunMap Report
June 03rd 2008ChinaLiaodun - Mogao CavesMap Report
June 04th 2008ChinaMogao Caves - DunhuangMap Report
June 05th 2008ChinaDunhuang - JiayuguanMap Report
June 06th 2008ChinaSightseeing around JiayuguanMap Report
June 07th 2008ChinaJiayuguan - ShandanMap Report
June 08th 2008ChinaShandan - N36.59 E103.08Map Report
June 09th 2008ChinaN36.59 E103.08 - LiujiaxiaMap Report
June 10th 2008ChinaLiujiaxia and the Bingling CavesMap Report
June 11th 2008ChinaLiujiaxia - LanzhouMap Report
DateCountryRoute NotesRoute MapRoute Report
June 12th 2008ChinaLanzhou - PinliangMap Report
June 13th 2008ChinaPinliang - Kongtong ShanMap Report
June 14th 2008ChinaPinliang - XianMap Report
June 16th 2008ChinaXian - Terracotta WarriorsMap Report
June 17th 2008ChinaWalking on Xian city wallsMap Report
June 18th 2008ChinaXian - PingliangMap Report
June 20th 2008ChinaPingliang - ZhongweiMap Report
June 21st 2008ChinaZhongwei - YinchuanMap Report
June 22nd 2008ChinaYinchuan - SalaqiMap Report
June 23rd 2008ChinaSalaqi - DatongMap Report
DateCountryRoute NotesRoute MapRoute Report
June 24th 2008ChinaSightseeing around DatongMap Report
June 25th 2008ChinaDatong - ChengdeMap Report
June 27th 2008ChinaGreat Wall at JinshanlingMap Report
June 28th 2008ChinaChengde - Zunhua tombsMap Report
June 29th 2008ChinaExploring the Zunhua tombsMap Report
June 30th 2008ChinaZunhua tombs - BeijingMap Report

Note: All route and stored position data are copyright 2008 Tim Makins and MapAbility.Com

Becalmed in Beijing

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The truck, or at least its passengers, or at least some of them, have arrived in Beijing.

Robyn (the mysterious) left some days ago to fly to Hong Kong. I saw her a few days later, back from Bangkok, where she had to go for her visa extension. The remaining passengers from Dover: Chris, myself, and Mr & Mrs Upgrade, plus Izzy, Graham and Renee who joined in Istanbul, plus an extra 7 who joined in Xian: Wayne and Dinah, Warren and Jan, Sharon and Colleen who all came on the re-routed Tibet truck (via Pakistan - don't ask!), and not forgetting Peter from Boston who came just for the Xian-Beijing section... all arrived in Beijing by coach, the truck having been safely parked many miles away, in a hotel car park in the city of Jixian. This was due to the current pre-Olympic regulations which ban all Dragoman trucks (and other large vehicles) from coming within Beijing's outer city limits. These regulations are in an effort to reduce the thick pall of pollution that normally hangs over the city, and so stop the athletes wheezing so much. Will it be enough to clear Beijing's skyline? Is there sufficient time for this cunning plan to work? I doubt it. The athletes in the know will have been training for some time in Mexico city. No, not for the altitude.

Most of the above passengers have now flown off, or caught trains to other parts of China. Warren, Jan, and myself have a free 11 days whilst we wait for the other passengers, and a new driver, to arrive for the start of the final 11 week super-tough section to St Petersburg. I am staying at the Huguosi Hotel - not so super-tough, and just 2kms north-west of the Forbidden City. Quite handy for all the sights, plus not too far from the metro and various bus stops either. Beijing is very spread out, so access to public transport is a must. The good news is that public transport is cheap: just 1.5Y for a bus ride, 2Y for the Metro, and 10Y for 3km in a taxi, of which there are quite a few. Amusing little detail: most taxi drivers don't speak English, but their taxi meters do - yes really. When they turn the meter on, it greets you in English, then at the end of the journey thanks you for the ride, reminds you to only pay what the meter says, and then suggestd that you take the receipt, which it helpfully prints out.

As promised some time back, I have finally got around to uploading some of my Overlanding photos for you all to check out. More will be added as and when. In the meantime, here's a list of all the new photo pages:

What with having so much time here in Beijiing (11 days) and also having free internet access in my hotel room, it gave me the impetus to find the local computer quarter in Beijing, and buy a second-hand A/C power supply that I should have brought with me from England. Anyway, I have thus been able to get a lot done online, sorting out my photos and choosing the best ones to share with everyone. I hope you enjoy them. Comments are welcome. If you haven't already, do check out some of the Blog pages as well - you can see a full list in the Archives.

A couple of days ago, I went to the China Post office on Jianguomen Beidajie to see if there was any mail waiting for me. The service is very good there - I was met at the door by a lady who spoke English. She took me straight to the Poste Restante counter, where there were about 40 letters waiting to be collected. Two of them were for me - hooray - from Rosemary Holland, and Wayne and Dinah Rogers. Thanks, everyone - they are very welcome. If someone else has sent a letter to Beijing then sorry - it didn't get here, or it is still on its way. In either case, it should eventually be returned to the sender's address. My next, actually my final mail pickup on this Overland journey, is in Almaty, Kazakhstan. If YOU would like to send me a card or letter, you can post it to:

MAKINS, T
Poste Restante
Central Post Office
Bogenbay Batyr 134
Almaty
KAZAKHSTAN

You should post letters to Almaty by the 1st of August, or a few days before. I will be arriving there on the 18th.

I have been to see the Forbidden City - made more special by seeing so much of it in the film 'The Last Emperor' - which is a brilliant movie, most colourful and well photographed - if you haven't seen it I would recommend that you borrow it from the library. The site is quite extensive, with supposedly 9,999 rooms, though I didn't bother to count!! There were HORDES of people there, despite going as early as I could. It is the major tourist attraction in Beijing, so hordes are to be expected. Also quite busy was the Olympic site, with its strange 'Bird's Nest' stadium, which I had wanted to take a look at. Construction is still being finalised, though, and finishing details checked, so the whole area is fenced off, despite the opening being in less than one month. I guess they don't want to get the new facilities dirty beforehand, or have people taking souvenirs either. I got a photo or two of the buildings through the fence. Lots of other people had the same idea.

Another site of major interest to me was the Old Summer Palace, which is infamous for having a Marble Boat built by the Dowager Empress Cixi, who used the money that was originally earmarked for building up a new imperial navy. No wonder their empire didn't last long after that! The Summer Palace is a wonderful site, on a really huge scale. The ferryboats across the lake are shaped like dragons, which is fun.

I have met a few of the travellers from another Dragoman truck, which has just completed the trip FROM St Petersburg. They tell me that there is little or any internet access in Mongolia, so if you don't hear from me for a month or two, that will be the reason.

That's enough Blogging for now.
Best wishes to all !
Travelling Tim