April 2008 Archives
Bactrian camels, Uzbekistan
Bactrian camels, Uzbekistan
Group of Uzbek yurts
Wild tortoise, Uzbekistan
Village elder, Uzbekistan
Uzbek woman, Uzbekistan
Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Samarkand
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Registan Square
Tilya-Kori Madrasah dome
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Registan Square
Registan Square in early morning
Tilya-Kori Madrasah, Samarkand
Ulugbek Madrasah, Samarkand
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Registan Square
Tilya-Kori Madrasah dome
Cleaner outside the Ulugbek Madrasah
Uzbek child, Samarkand
Uzbek girl, Samarkand
Gur-e Amir, the tomb of Timur
Gur-e Amir, the tomb of Timur
Gur-e Amir, the tomb of Timur
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Registan Square
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Registan Square
Uzbek ladies at Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Tomb of Kusam ibn Abbas
Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum
Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum
Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum
Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum
Uzbek girls, Samarkand
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Samarkand
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Samarkand
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Samarkand
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Samarkand
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Samarkand
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Samarkand
Sher-Dor Madrasah, Samarkand
Modern statue, Tashkent
Uzbek man, Tashkent
Uzbek man, Tashkent
Uzbek man, Tashkent
Central square, Tashkent
War memorial, Tashkent
These photographs were all taken on my Overland journey from the UK to St Petersburg, via Beijing, in 2008. High resolutions versions are available for licencing - please Contact Me for further details.
Minaret in Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Kalyan minaret in Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Uzbek ceramics in Bukhara bazaar
Uzbek girl embroidering cloth
Uzbek woman in multi-coloured dress
Bazaar in old Bukhara madrassa
Pigeon in old Bukhara madrassa
Column top in Ark Citadel, Bukhara
Uzbek woman in Ark Citadel, Bukhara
Exotic souvenirs at the Ark Citadel
Uzbek hats
Mosque and domes at Bukhara
Kalyan minaret in Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Uzbek ceramics in Bukhara bazaar
Uzbek ceramics in Bukhara bazaar
Tim Abdullakhan, Bukhara
Detail of bazaar roof, Bukhara
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Bolo Khauz Mosque, Bukhara
Uzbek boy, at Ark Citadel
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Ulugbek Madrassa, Bukhara
Miri Arab Madrassa, Bukhara
Ulugbek Madrassa, Bukhara
These photographs were all taken on my Overland journey from the UK to St Petersburg, via Beijing, in 2008. High resolutions versions are available for licencing - please Contact Me for further details.
Statue near West Gate, Khiva
Children near Khiva walls, Uzbekistan
Crying Mother statue, Khiva
Khiva mosque, Uzbekistan
Khiva mosque, Uzbekistan
Khiva mosque, Uzbekistan
Khiva mosque, Uzbekistan
Khiva mosque, Uzbekistan
Puppets in Khiva bazaar
Portrait of Uzbek girl, Khiva
Ceramic gifts in Khiva bazaar
Caligraphy tiles, Khiva
Blue tiles in Khiva mosque
Ceramic gifts in Khiva bazaar
Coat of many colours, Khiva
Blue tiles in Khiva mosque
Tiles and wooden pillar, Khiva
Dzhuma Mosque, Khiva
Uzbek schoolchildren, Khiva
Minaret of mosque, Khiva
View over old city, Khiva
Uzbek raised tombs, near Khiva
Amu Darya, or Oxus River
These photographs were all taken on my Overland journey from the UK to St Petersburg, via Beijing, in 2008. High resolutions versions are available for licencing - please Contact Me for further details.
Yes, I'm still here! Still on the road, and still OK. There are few opportunities to get onlnie during this section of the journey, so if you haven't heard from me lately, don't be surprised.
This will be another text-only Blog: I just don't have the time to add photos, due to my mistake of not bringing an AC power supply for my laptop. By the time I've downloaded the pics from my camera to the laptop, then made a DVD of them, the battery has run out. I then have to wait until the next day to re-charge on the truck. Moral of the story: bring an AC and a DC power supply if you are intending to bring a laptop on the truck. All i all, though, I'm REALLY glad that I have it with me. Its not often possible to find a shop to do the job of transferring photos to a DVD - the only alternative is a STACK of memory cards.
Mail - I made a pickup in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. One letter was received, from Margaret Makins. Thanks, Margaret - I have sent you a postcard. It was fun tracking down your letter - they don't use the Poste Restante service very much in Ashgabat, but a nice girl at the main post office tracked it down - it had been received just 1 day before I got there!
The truck, and I, are currently in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. We are having a great time, with lots of stunning things to see. The cities here: Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand, are one of the main reasons why I came on this journey, and they are NOT disappointing me at all.
Also, the weather has improved a lot, and we now have plenty of sun. I guess the temperature must be in the high 30s, so am finding things to do inside during the heat of the day, venturing out in the late afternoon to take advantage of the gorgeous desert light.
This Blog is a little un-prepared, as I was not sure whether I could get online or not today. Soooo, I'll just jot a few things down that occur to me, ad add more at a later date. Since my last entry, we have crossed the Caspian Sea to Turkmenistan, on a very old train ferry. Quite an experience - my photos of the toilet will probably receive an '18' certificate, but the bunks were comfortable enough, and the ferry not too crowded. Only a couple of other road vehicles - the ship was mostly full of freight trucks. We shared the ship with 2 groups of cyclists travelling from Greece to Beijing in time for the Olympics - the Germans were well organised, as you would expect, but the Lithuanians were rather less so, as not all had passports with them. At the other side, we spent AGES trying to get through customs and immigration - we were even charged for PARKING the truck whilst we went through the formalities, and that for TWO days as the processing went past midnight!! There was also an unloading-fee, as we took our own bags off the truck to go through Customs - what a cheek!!
Turkmenistan is a very unusual country, with a very unusual capital city. The last president features everywhere, usually in statues plated with gold, and we are constantly reminded of his status as 'Father of the Turkmens' - figuratively speaking, of course. He even has his own manual published, that tells his people how to live their lives: rather like the other Little Read Book. Ashgabat is an imposing city, with wide avenues, more statues, but a surfeit of people. Where have they put them all, one wonders? Driving out to the desert provides no clues - we saw very few 'real people' there either.
Uzbekistan is much nicer. Even the border officials were smiling and waving. The women here are very friendly, graceful and beautiful - what a shame that I don't have more room in my back pack. I'm enjoying the cities a lot here, so won't say much more right now: there's a lot of photos still to take!!
Love to everyone. Do send a note to say what's happening - its always nice to hear from you.
Khans Palace - Seki, Azerbaijan
Khans Palace - Seki, Azerbaijan
Azerbaijan farmer
Dragoman truck on narrow mountain road
Azerbaijan post box
Laihic coppersmiths village, Azerbaijan
Pylons near Baku, Azerbaijan
Gobustan mud volcanoes near Baku
Statue outside Maiden Tower, Baku
Shirvan-Shahs Palace, Baku
Shirvan-Shahs Palace, Baku
Shirvan-Shahs Palace, Baku
Ateshka Fire Temple near Baku
Government house in Baku, Azerbaijan
Kipchak Mosque near Ashgabat, Turkmenistan
Kipchak Mosque near Ashgabat, Turkmenistan
Arch of Neutrality, central Ashgabat
War Memorial in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan
View over Ashgabat city, Turkmenistan
Sunday Market near Ashgabat, Turkmenistan
Water crater at Darvaza, Turkmenistan
Three-wheel tractor, Turkmenistan
These photographs were all taken on my Overland journey from the UK to St Petersburg, via Beijing, in 2008. High resolutions versions are available for licencing - please Contact Me for further details.
Ships in Batumi docks, Georgia
Stalin Museum at Batumi, Georgia
Gelati Monastery at Kutasi, Georgia
Gelati Monastery at Kutasi, Georgia
Gelati Monastery at Kutasi, Georgia
Bagrati Monastery at Kutasi, Georgia
Stalins railway carriage - Gori, Georgia
Stalins railway carriage - Gori, Georgia
Kazbegi village, northern Georgia
Trekking through the snow, Kazbegi
Kazbegi Nunnery, Georgia
Kazbegi Nunnery, Georgia
Snow-covered mountains near Kazbegi
Dragoman truck crossing Georgian mountains
Tim tries on Georgian sheepskin hat
Old lady at roadside stall, Georgia
Ananuri Monastery - Ananuri, Georgia
Ananuri Monastery - Ananuri, Georgia
Ananuri Monastery - Ananuri, Georgia
Sameba Cathedral - Tbilisi, Georgia
Inside the Sameba Cathedral - Tbilisi
View from Narikala fortress - Tbilisi
Central Roundabout - Tbilisi
Worshippers at Sion Cathedral, Tbilisi
Shepherd with sheep, Georgia
Georgian mountains
These photographs were all taken on my Overland journey from the UK to St Petersburg, via Beijing, in 2008. High resolutions versions are available for licencing - please Contact Me for further details.
Suprising statue in Munich centre
I am 16 you are 17 - Sound of Music
Wedding church from Sound of Music
Sacher Torte at Sachers in Salzburg
Nonnberg Convent used in Sound of Music
The Blue Mosque - Istanbul, Turkey
Blue Mosque interior - Istanbul
Blue Mosque interior - Istanbul
Hagia Sophia interior - Istanbul
Hagia Sophia exterior - Istanbul
Traditional ferry boat on Bosphorous
Fisherman on Bosphorous, Istanbul
Preserved loco outside Haydarapasa Station
Traditional ferry boats on Bosphorous
Hagia Sophia exterior - Istanbul
Bosphorous Bridge - Istanbul
Turkish village in Anatolia
Goreme cave dwellings - Cappadocia
Goreme cave dwellings - Cappadocia
Uchisar Hill and Castle - Cappadocia
Turkish ceramic art
Painted cave chapel at Goreme
Goreme cave dwellings - Cappadocia
Cave police station near Goreme
Dragoman bush camp in Turkey
Sumela Monastery near Trabzon, Turkey
Sumela Monastery near Trabzon, Turkey
These photographs were all taken on my Overland journey from the UK to St Petersburg, via Beijing, in 2008. High resolutions versions are available for licencing - please Contact Me for further details.
This entry comes to you from Tblisi, the capital of Georgia. The news is that we have arrived here, and that the weather is getting a little warmer, and the streets are bathed in spring sunshine, which is a welcome change from the weather of the last few weeks. This is, without doubt, the consistently coldest Overland journey I've ever been on, so its great to have a break from triple layers and thermals every day and night!
The truck currently has 15 passengers on it, ranging in ages from 22 to about 65, with nationalities composed of Brits, Canadians, Americans, Australians, and New Zealanders. Most people are getting on with each other, though there are the usual strange characters who do their best to rub everyone up the wrong way. Overlanding is a great gamble, depending totally on the people who choose to come on the same trip as you. Some you win, and some you lose. Still, there is the slight advantage, these days, that most people only stay on the truck for a few weeks. I am the only passenger who is making the full trip from UK to St Petersburg. Currently there is no one on the truck who is even going on to Russia. There was one American woman who was intending to do the last section, but she has cancelled due to a previously bad experience with the driver who is due to join in Beijing. 'There is no way I will ever travel on the same truck as him again', she tells us. I am keeping my fingers crossed that he is not, in fact, as bad as she makes out!
Its takes a little time to get back into the swing of travelling by truck. Its also easy to forget how handy it is to have 24-hour broadband internet access. Just getting ready to say something on the web, or replying to the mass of emails that can arrive takes a little getting used to when the only computer at a hotel is needed by everyone else staying there as well, so don't be surprised if there are frequent gaps between messages from me. I had thought this would be different following my experiences in Africa last year, but as is often the case, nothing is quite as you expect.
Every truck is different. It is easy to forget this when pre-planning for a journey. This time I took a laptop with me, to make things easier when dealing with my photos, especially the large file-sizes that today's semi-pro cameras produce. On the last Drago truck there was a 12v power point in the rear of the truck for the use of the passengers. I assumed this would be the same this time, so only brought a 12v power supply for the laptop, assuming that I would use it whilst going along, and in the evenings. This has turned out to be a silly move on my part. Not only is there no power point in the rear, but the driver is so worried about the state of the truck's battery that we cannot use it in the evenings. No sitting in the back, writing diaries, as in the past, and certainly no laptop charging. That can only be done in the cab, during the day, whilst we are going along. Also, we are spending much more time than I ever dreamt of staying in hotels, when the mains charger, if I had one, would have been really useful. My advice for other travellers on this route is that a mains charger is far more useful than a 12v one. Not only will you have plenty of time to use it in hotels, but you can also tap in to the occasional WiFi hotspots, which so far have been encountered in Salzburg, Istanbul, and here in Tblisi.
Away from technology for a while, and back to the journey that I am making. We had a fairly quick transit through Europe, stopping only for sight-seeing in Munich and Salzburg. The real journey started in Istanbul, where more passengers arrived. It was lovely to be back in Istanbul after all my pleasant experiences of the past, even though we didn't have a lot of time there. Its easy to forget just how long the journey is to Beijing - Turkey must be left for future exploration when I have more time. Apart from Istanbul, we visited Goreme, for its fascinating volcanic 'Fairy Chimneys', and the Sumela Monastery, near Trabzon. I'll add photos eventually: at the moment it is just too compicated.
I am enjoying Georgia a lot, which is handy as we have more time here to see things. Georgia is like Turkey was 20 years ago. The countryside is very beautiful, and the people, though rather guarded, are friendly. We started by exploring the seaside port of Batumi, then moved inland to see Gori, then crossed the high mountains near the Russian border to visit Kazbegi, and do a bit of trekking in the hills. We have visted many churches and monasteries, with more to come. I love the Georgian houses in the countryside - they are all 2 storey, with wide balconies and a large patch of garden. Many grapevines - it must be really beautiful in the summertime.
Tblisi is a pleasant capital, situated between 2 hills, and set along a river. There are many fine buildings to see, especially the Eastern Orthodox churches, which I have spent quite a while looking at. The people here take their religion very seriously, and are frequent visitors to church. The custom is to light candles before your selected icons, of which there are usually a great many, finely painted, and often surrounded with chased silver or gold work. I hope to visit Georgia again, one day.
Must dash now, but will add more soon. The next internet access will be in Baku, Azerbaijan.
